Living in Japan Part 2 – Getting Around

Posted on | October 21, 2009 | 6 Comments |

I think one of the things that strikes you most about Tokyo is just how fscking enormous it all is – the streets go on for miles and miles – people crowd the streets and the trains every morning and evening, going about thei daily lives – businesses are so packed together that different cafes stack on top of each other in most places. And unlike London, walking between train stations is generally a lot further than expected…(Well, apart from around the Imperial palace anyway the distance is likely to be at least 1.5km).

The trains themselves are pretty damn confusing – around 10 different train companies run services in Tokyo, incluiding JR, such as Tokyo Metro, Keio, Odakyu, Toei, and Tokyu to name the largest. It seems that since the train system was privatised, a whole bunch of companies sprung up to fill the gap and investment is still occurring (Tokyo metro opened the new Fukutoshin line last year). To be honest, I’ve had plenty long to get used to the trains system in Tokyo, so it’s not that confusing to me, but starting out it’s pretty haphazard. Metropolitan Tokyo is pretty much covered by the circular Yamanote line (JR), and through the centre run the JR Chuo/Sobu lines. Apart from that, you’ll have to use other train companies for getting around (Since only JR is included in the Japan Rail pass). Tokyo’s rail map is a spider’s web of lines – most of them don’t ven show all available routes. Some subway lines run out onto overground operators lines and overground operators use JR and subway lines with great abandon so you never really know all the ways of getting from one place to another. The best way is probably to use a internet journey planner such as Hyperdia (run by JR I think) which also lists prices, which is really useful.

Despite the abundance of trains, actually there are a fair number of buses, especially in the suburbs where it can be 2 or three miles to the nearest train station (since all the lines fan out from the centre) and all of them have really annoying female announcers (electronic ones) that just do not stop talking – usually they’re telling you about all the wonderful things there are at the next bus stop or warning you not to leave your seat until the bus comes to a complete stop (ignoring all the people standing of course). And considering you get less miles for your money, they’re pretty bad value.

It’s not surprising then, that bicycles rule urban Tokyo.

I have to say, even here in Mitaka I’ve not seen so many bicycles outside of Cambridge (where you couldn’t get anywhere by car, so you had to buy a bike). You even have to pay for bicycle parking in some places (namely around the stations). After dealing with Japanese cyclists for a few weeks, and being one myself, I have come to the conclusion that cyclists should all take a basic bicycle test just so that they know their rights when riding in Japan. Here is a sample of the practice text:

You are allowed to ride not only on the narrow pavement to get in the way of pedestrians, but also in the road too to get in the way of cars
You may ride in any direction on the road, including into the oncoming traffic and into oncoming bikes
Red lights mean nothing to you – as long as it seems OK to go, you can go whenever you like, especially at busy intersections
Despite the many dangers of riding on busy roads, it is expressly forbidden to wear a helmet past the age of 10 years old.
It is exceedingly uncool to be seen to be using both hands, so eating, answering the phone and holding umbrellas as you cycle down the street are all recommended.

Seriously, I think Japanese cyclists are some of the most dangerous in the world…and it seems like most of them don’t even go fast (the bikes only have one gear – medium fast). When I ride fast it sounds like my bike is breaking…

But it feels good to be king of the road again – ahh natsukashii…

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6 Responses to “Living in Japan Part 2 – Getting Around”

Xak
October 21st, 2009 @ 3:03 pm

www sounds like you’re adapting pretty well and enjoying it XD
Alexeon
October 21st, 2009 @ 3:58 pm

Hehe, those rules are great. Ill have to remember to ride one-handed when I get a bike in Japan. I cant be seen as the uncool gaijin, now can I?
Aaron Davies
October 23rd, 2009 @ 11:54 am

They got nothing on Singapore. I’ve seen someone riding, in the rain, on a sidewalk, with an umbrella in one hand and a cell phone^W^Wmobile^Whandphone in the other. (I generally limit myself to two-handed sidewalk slalom, and blame the pedestrians for ignoring my frantic bell-ringing.)
Akakori
October 24th, 2009 @ 6:31 am

You have to ride like that in Japan because it seems everything is out to get you, including cars, dogs and oblivious elementary school children. It’s like playing Paperboy every day.
OnceAndFutureExPat
October 29th, 2009 @ 5:01 am

My information is eight years out of date (and Kyoto/Osaka-centric at any rate) but you should really consider investing in either a used moped with an engine small enough to avoid needing a license or a 15-18 speed mountain bike. I bought an 18 speed American mountain bike for about what it costs in the states. A racing bike would be best but the specialty shops used to charge a fortune for those. Any of those three will allow you to keep up with street traffic or possibly highway traffic. If you do get your own bike, buy a separate wire lock for the saddle. Nothing like throwing your leg out to mount the bike and then having to turn into a spin because you JUST realized somebody stole your gel cushioned saddle.
thecat
November 2nd, 2009 @ 8:38 pm

Have you noticed how all the bikes sound horribly broken when they’re braking? I’d say that that’s the weird “polite” Japanese way, because they don’t want to be impolite by ringing their bells at you. So instead they have noisy bikes that notify you when they have to brake because of you. :P